An Unprejudiced Palate

Posted on March 26th, 2013

Autumn not only brings the beauty of the deciduous trees to life, it also hails in the busiest time of the year for larder stocking. The kitchen is a hive of activity, the stove often on with large pots bubbling and boiling above the flame. Steam fills the room, as does bowls of discarded fruit peel, and empty bags of sugar and vinegar. A large fowelers pot sits bubbling away, stocked with jars of pears, apples, plums and nectarines all being preserved for winter baking and fruity treats.

IMG_8620

Tomatoes are sliced, salted and dried in a warm ventilated oven, then carefully placed in jars filled with chilli and olive oil. Crushed tomatoes are decanted into long thin jars as passata for winter stews and anything that requires that taste of summer to bring it to the fore.

IMG_8638

Old variety pears site in wooden crates, finishing off the ripening process before they’re either bottled or sneakily eaten by small marauding children.

ss

Pumpkins sit in odd places for the lack of storage space. Here they’ll store cool and dry, by the time winter comes they’ll become a regular feed. From soup to pizza, risotto to simply roasted, pumpkins are a mainstay of our winter diet. Soon the beans will be stored, they too are a winter staple as they dry well in the pod and store cleanly in large jars waiting to be included in the weekly chilli bean stew. And chilli is dried for cooking or made into a hot salsa picante to dress the mornings bacon and eggs, roast vegetables and anything else that demands the kick of chilli sauce.

IMG_8634

The kitchen shelves, the deep freezer and the outside larder fill up with pretty jars of stuff and things, all different colours and shapes, all edible, all delicious, all made by hand. Not made by craftsmen, or people of the food industry, but people like you and me … it’s us folks.

 

IMG_8639

What was once a dream is now not just a reality, it’s a life well lived. Most evenings end the day with a “I’m knackered”….or….”Yeah I’m stuffed too” as we fall into bed spent. Where I used to lie in bed and worry about work politics or money, I now merely drift off, barely able to last a few pages of a book before I concede that tiredness has got the better of me.

When I first read ‘The Unprejudiced Palate’ I smiled with hope at the end of most pages. Now I feel like Angelo and I could be friends sharing our daily stories of cooking and living the good life. It’s a life thats often sort after by many, and often it’s dismissed as something of a romantic notion. But for me it’s something thats within reach for anyone. All thats required is determination to make it happen. Do I have it? Well I’m trying my best and as a result I’m enjoying life like I never imagined.

qq

My larder is full of food that is free of chemicals, factories hands and machines, it’s local, it’s branded with low carbon miles. But best of all, it’s just simply real food. Stuff that’s grown in my yard, in my friends orchard, on trees that surround abandoned settlements, picked wild from the ground or bartered with friends.

IMG_8626

If I was asked what I was cooking with, many years ago, I’d have a stag in the headlights moment. I often re-heated factory food in an oven, open store bought sauces and added them to out of season vegetables and badly raised animals. I’d often microwave processed pasta meals and crumbed chicken. I made a decision to leave that behind, head for the hills and life a life like something you’d imagine to see in rural Spain, where food is appreciated for it’s seasonality and cultural importance, it’s also grown in the back paddock.

Anyway, enough talk. It’s late. I’m stuffed. Good night.

 

 

 

IMG_8617

tradition

Posted on March 24th, 2013

My back strained as I bent over the sink, washing a years worth of dust off the old long necks, one dark glass bottle after another. The task seemed endless and the tips of my fingers felt rather prune like. It was a task I couldn’t avoid. The annual passata making day had come around once again and I needed as many  clean bottles as I could get my hands on. I’d lost a few in the boiling process last year, and because I don’t drink beer, I hadn’t replaced my cache of broken bottles. I was short a few dozen bottles, but it passata day, I’d have to make do with what I had in store.

 

a

Passata is crushed tomatoes, nothing more nothing less. It’s been a staple in Italian kitchens for countless generations, and much of my cooking relies on it as the base for slow cooked stews, pasta sauces and breakfast beans.

The Romas are picked ripe, at the end of the growing season, crushed then bottled to ensure the kitchen is in supply throughout the oncoming year. Its liquid summer thats stored in dark glass bottles.

 

w

Each year we source boxes of tomatoes on a wholesale level. Growing that many tomatoes myself is not feasible, and it’s too risky. If I have a poor tomato growing season, like I’ve had this year, then I’d be stuffed. So I rely on getting the red gems from commercial growers when the fruit is at it’s peak. Each year they’ve come from a different supplier, but the sauce remains the same. In fact thats what I love about this food chore. Its the same every year. The fine details of the process that is.

r

 

This year my children and I were the only people that had been at all our passata days. Everyone else was new. Each year  we’ve welcomed new members into our passata family and to date not one year has had the same people.

 

s

As I attached the hand crank tomato machine to the outside table I looked over this most basic of engineering feat with wonder. It had been there every year, it works for just one day a year. It’s basic form and solid construction works like a draught horse, it’s hardy and reliable. It’s beauty is in it’s simplicity, a handful of parts that once assembled, transform into something that makes crushing tomatoes an easy task, so much so that you can crush a few hundred kilo in a days work.

d

 

We worked well into the afternoon, keeping hydrated with Ray’s home made wine, and a few crisp lagers. The process is the same every year, we decant the red sauce into the bottles, caps are secured with a mallet then placed in 44 gallon drums filled with water to be boiled well into the night. In the morning the sealed bottles of tomato are stacked in the larder for a year of storage with the inevitability that one day that bottle is plucked from the shelf, poured into a pot to form the basis of a hearty meal.

 

 

I cleaned the machine away, stacked the full sauce bottles in the larder and looked at my efforts and smiled with a little bit of pride. Each bottle represents a meal, and there’s almost 100 bottles. Like a squirrel storing provisions for the oncoming winter, we too now have our pile of acorns.

IMG_8616

 

 

 

 

 

autumn calling

Posted on March 17th, 2013

My boots kick up small clouds of dust as I walk across the dry paddock, it’s been so long since we’ve had rain. It surprises me how the stock have survived this long summer, eating nothing much more than just the dry grass. Poor bastards, covered in thick wool all summer, it can’t be pleasant.

IMG_8531

The autumnal colours make the fields look as fake as a hollywood picture, but they’re real. The early evening hits the golden hour, the tones and colours are accentuated to extreme as the sun releases its final rays for the day.

IMG_8535

I approached the old homestead with caution, the long dry grass is often visited by copperheads on warm days such as today, and as much as I respect snakes I’m not keen on being bitten on the ankle. I’ve spotted quite a few this summer, enough to be vigilant when traipsing through their territory.

IMG_8529

The sun was still high by the time I reached the dilapidated house, and it was warm enough that I’d worked up a sweat. I was on a reconnaissance mission of sorts. At the rear of the old place is one of the largest walnut trees I’ve ever seen, not to mention the large chestnut too. The walnut is pushing 100 years of age, its base is as wide as a car and its branches spread outward like elongated fingers, shading the ground below it with dense foliage. It’s a truly beautiful site. The kind of feature that would make me buy the land just for the sake of the tree.

Finding a well established walnut tree or chestnut is a real coup for me. Both types of nuts I love to eat as a snack, but more importantly they often end up in lot of my cooking. I love using walnut in pesto and in salads and chestnut in stuffing for hunted game. And walnuts are especially a favourite as they store well for a year if dried properly.

IMG_8524

It’s probably a bit early to foraging for walnuts (and far too early for chestnuts). Traditionally I forage for them closer to easter, but like all food that I forage, I tend to keep an eye on its progress during the season as nature is unpredictable, she’s a beast that doesn’t run by a strict calendar. And it’s been a dry summer, so I figured the nuts might drop early this year, and my hunch turned out to be right. Standing below the tree I spotted walnuts everywhere. The soft flesh had even rotted off a few exposing the hard shell of the nut.

s

I cracked a few open, all disappointingly shrivelled or rotten. There is plenty of nuts still on the tree, maybe over the next few weeks might get my hands on some better nuts. I guess I’m a little too eager. Just like I’ll check on the wild apples and chestnuts.

a

Hopefully they too will provide some tucker for the home kitchen and larder. If not I’ll rely on something else. Thats the flexibility I need to have. Nothing seems to be a certainty. Like the birds of prey that glide on the warm winds, I too need to fly on the wind that is provided. Not to work against, it but to embrace it. For now I’ll accept the gift of a bunch of apples and be on my way, forever keeping an eye out for the next new tree that will provide another bounty.

IMG_8513